Tuesday 12th October 1819
Tuesday Oct 12th At 8 o’clock we took a guide & walked over a wet & most wretched footpath to the ?*** ***? bridge of Brackland where there is a fine waterfall the situation is very fine & the lochs of a square shape & very striking after 2 more miles walk we reached the road where our carriages were waiting & proceeded to Doune 8 miles from Callander to breakfast after breakfast we visited Doune Castle a very fine ruin commanding a beautiful view several of the rooms & staircases are entire we then continued our journey to Stirling five miles we drove to Gibbs Hotel which is excellent before dinner we walked to the garrison built on very high steep rocks somewhat resembling the basaltic pillars part of the old Castle remains which is curiously ??crenelated?? on the outside
the view from it is very extensive & the winding of the river forth which can be discerned for miles very beautiful the town of Stirling is very dirty & irregularly built & I cannot say I have the least wish to remain here longer than tomorrow morning.
OBSERVATIONS & COMMENTS:
Bridge of Brackland: Visited by Queen Victoria, the Bracklinn Falls are one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Scotland, north-east of Callander on the course of the Keltie Wate.
2002: Bracklinn Falls by Sarah Charlesworth. This image was taken from the Geograph project collection. The copyright on this image is owned by Sarah Charlesworth and is licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bracklinn_Falls_-_geograph.org.uk_-_921667.jpg
In 2004, a long-standing steel footbridge over the falls was washed away by severe floods and, in October 2010, a new wood-and-copper footbridge was hauled into place by hand because the location made it impossible to use a crane. The falls were seen in the 1975 comedy film, Monty Python and the Holy Grail. It is not certain what type of bridge was present in 1819. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracklinn_Falls
Doune is well known for pistols and Roman remains, and allegedly a Doune pistol fired the first shot of the American War of Independence. The town is dominated by Doune Castle, built in the late 14th century. Architecturally it is a mixture of fortress and manor house. Bonnie Prince Charlie passed through Doune in 1745.
Main Street, Doune . This is the main road through the village. © Copyright Colin Smith and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/219190
Like in other Celtic lands, Doune also has tales of fairies. One such place is Ternishee, a small wood east of the Annat chapel, above Doune Lodge, 1½ miles from Doune. Its name comes from the Gaelic "tir na sídhe" meaning land of the fairy. Fairy dancing parties are recounted on the Fairy Knowe, a hillock on the right bank of the Ardoch, half a mile east of Doune. Also near the Bridge of Teith, on the low road to Callander, a burial mound called Tullochanknowe is said to be a favourite haunt of the fairies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doune
Doune Castle was originally built in the thirteenth century, then probably damaged in the Scottish Wars of Independence, before being rebuilt in its present form in the late 14th century by Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany (c.1340–1420), the son of King Robert II of Scots. His stronghold has survived relatively unchanged and complete. The castle passed to the crown in 1425, when Albany's son was executed, and was used as a royal hunting lodge and dower house. In the later 16th century, Doune became the property of the Earls of Moray. The castle saw military action during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms and Glencairn's rising in the mid-17th century, and during the Jacobite risings of the late 17th century and 18th century.
1804: Scotia Depicta - Doune Castle Plate XL/b - John Claude Nattes made drawings of suitable scenes on the spot; etchings are by James Fittler. Collection of the National Library of Scotland Accession number 74582402. This work is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 100 years or fewer. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Scotia_Depicta_-_Doune_Castle_-Plate-.jpg
By 1800 the castle was ruined, but restoration works were carried out in the 1880s, prior to its passing into state care in the 20th century. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doune_Castle
2016: Aerial view of Doune Castle and Castle keeper's cottage, Doune, Scotland , Author Godot13, Attribution Andrew Shiva / Wikipedia and published under the (CC BY-SA 4.0) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Scotland-2016-Aerial-Doune_Castle_(and_Castle_keeper%27s_cottage).jpg
Doune Castle. From the English Wikipedia en:Image:Doune_Castle_south_wall.jpg. Original photograph by en:User:Deez. The copyright holder of this work allows anyone to use it for any purpose including unrestricted redistribution, commercial use, and modification. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Doune_Castle_south_wall.jpg
2013: Doune Castle: Medieval stronghold near the village of Doune, in the Stirling district of central Scotland, view from Northeast by Wikifan75, the copyright holder of this work, and published under the (CC BY-SA 3.0) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Doune_Castle_Scotland.jpg
Stirling, when under Anglo-Saxon sway, was attacked by Danish invaders. According to a 9th-century legend, the sound of a wolf roused a sentry, however, who alerted his garrison, which forced a Viking retreat. This led to the wolf being adopted as a symbol of the town and the area is today known as Wolfcraig. Once the capital of Scotland, Stirling is visually dominated by Stirling Castle.
2004: Stirling from Braehead by Peter Gordon. This image was taken from the Geograph project collection. The copyright on this image is owned by Peter Gordon and is licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Stirling_from_Braehead_-_December_2004_-_geograph.org.uk_-_254316.jpg
The view from Stirling Castle , Looking over the Forth Valley to the Wallace Monument and the Ochil Hills. © Copyright Graham Hogg and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5965401
Stirling also has a medieval parish church, the Church of the Holy Rude, where, on 29 July 1567, the infant James VI was anointed King of Scots by the Bishop of Orkney with the service concluding after a sermon by John Knox.
2010: Church of the Holy Rude, Stirling, Scotland. View from Stirling Castle by Postdlf and published under the (CC BY-SA 3.0) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Church_of_the_Holy_Rude_001.jpg
James VI was educated by George Buchanan and grew up in Stirling. He was later crowned King of England and Ireland on 25 July 1603, bringing closer the countries of the United Kingdom. The church, founded in 1129, is the second oldest building in the city after Stirling castle. It was rebuilt in the 15th century after Stirling suffered a catastrophic fire in 1405, and is reputed to be the only surviving church in the United Kingdom apart from Westminster Abbey to have held a coronation. Musket shot marks that may come from Cromwell's troops during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms are clearly visible on the tower and apse of the church. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stirling
Gibbs Hotel, initially known as Wingate’s Inn opened to much “fanfare and anticipation” in 1786 to “provide a valuable service to visitors and travellers to and from Stirling alike.” James Wingate, a Stirling business man, commissioned the famous Scottish architect Gideon Gray to build a hotel on the site of The Gibb’s Inn Tavern and Lodgings, located in Quality Street Stirling. The Gibb’s Inn was according to antiquity, “The principal hotel in Stirling catering for coaches going north to Perth – ‘The Difiance’ 4 horse coach leaving at 8.50am – and south to Glasgow – ‘The Rapide’ leaving for Glasgow at 8.30am, both from the pend behind the Inn.”
The Golden Lion, Stirling . Hotel in the centre of Stirling. Built by James Whingate and opened in May 1786. © Copyright Dan and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1157331
On the 26th August 1787 Robert Burns then aged 28 and his travelling companion Willie Nicol, who was a Master at Edinburgh High School, Latin scholar and student of literature visited Stirling Castle. They stayed at The Golden Lion and in the evening they were joined for dinner in the Hotel by local businessman Mr. Christopher Bell. At the time the Castle was in a very rundown condition and this inspired him to write the famous “Stirling Lines” and etched the following verse on a pane of glass in his second floor bedroom. “Here Stuarts once in glory reign’d, And laws for Scotland’s weal ordain’d ; But now unroof ‘d their palace stands, Their sceptre’s sway’d by other hands. The injur’d Stuart line is gone, A race outlandish fills their throne An idiot race, to honour lost : Who know them best despise them most.” Realising his lament for the deposed Stuart line and shock at the dilapidated state of The Castle had caused offence, Burns returned to the hotel in October of that year and smashed the pane of glass with the butt of his riding crop. James Macdonald the Hebridean diarist recorded in his journal of the 2nd June 1796 that he had enjoyed dinner with Burns the evening previous in Sanquhar Dumfrieshire where, Burns discussed at length his stay at the Golden Lion Hotel. This was only two months before Burns died at the age of 37.In 1820 the name Quality Street was changed to its present name of King Street in honour of King George IV, who ascended to the throne in that year. http://www.thegoldenlionstirling.com/the-hotel/heritage-history/
Stirling Castle was one of the most used of the many Scottish royal residences, before the Union, very much a palace as well as a fortress.
Stirling Castle . Artist: G B Campion Engraver: R Wallis. http://www.rareoldprints.com/z/5668
Stirling Castle. Artist & Engraver W Banks http://www.rareoldprints.com/z/16911
Considered the mightiest stronghold in the kingdom, Stirling Castle played a prominent part in the 13th and 14th century Wars of Independence against England. In 1296, it was occupied by King Edward I during his triumphant conquest of Scotland, but in the following year was retaken by the Scots after William Wallace's victory over an English force in the battle of Stirling Bridge. A second invasion culminated in the great siege of 1304 when Stirling was the last castle in Scotland to surrender to Edward. With an absentee king, the exiled John Balliol, and no hope of reinforcement, 140 men led by Sir William Oliphant stubbornly held out, claiming that they were holding the castle "for the Lion", i.e. the royal standard fluttering above its ramparts. But after a pounding from 13 siege engines over three months, the beleaguered garrison finally capitulated and its members were carted off to English prisons. Among the weapons employed by the English besiegers was a massive engine called the 'War Wolf'. Because it was as yet untried, Edward, keen to see its effect, insisted that some of the garrison return to the castle until it had been fired against the walls. A plaque on the wall of the King's Old Building in the Upper Square commemorates the garrison's heroic defence during the siege. Under King Robert the Bruce (r.1306-29) most Scottish castles were won back from English control until, by 1313, Stirling was one of only three still in enemy hands. Having besieged the castle for several months, Edward Bruce, much to his brother's annoyance, arranged with the castle governor that the defenders would surrender if an English army failed to come within three leagues of Stirling by the following Midsummer's Day, 1314. The result was the battle of Bannockburn in which Bruce's heavily outnumbered footsoldiers defeated an approaching army of English knights led by Edward II. After the battle the castle was returned to the Scots who partly dismantled the fortifications in line with Bruce's policy of denying the enemy future strongholds, "lest the English ever afterwards might lord it over the land by holding the castles". In 1337, during the second War of Independence (1332-56), Edward III's troops garrisoned the castle after Bruce's son and heir, David II (r.1329-71), had fled to France. In 1342 their five years long occupation ended after a siege lasting six months, during which, according to Froissart's Chronicles, cannon were used for the first time in Scotland. With the accession of Robert II (r.1371-90) the castle began its long association with the Stewart monarchs, many of whom were either born within its walls or spent their minorities there. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2719623
Stirling Castle. © Copyright kim traynor and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2719623
Several Scottish Kings and Queens have been crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542, and others were born or died there. The chronicler, William Worcester, associated Stirling with the court of the legendary King Arthur. After the Union the royal family left for London and Stirling's role as a royal residence declined, becoming principally a military centre. It was used as a prison for persons of rank during the 17th century and saw few visits by the monarch. Following the execution of Charles I, the Scots crowned his son Charles II, and he became the last reigning monarch to stay here, living at the castle in 1650. After the Restoration of Charles II the castle was frequently used as a prison, housing several Covenanters. During this time, the castle's military role became increasingly important, a powder magazine being built in the castle gardens, and a formal garrison installed from 1685.
Stirling Castle against evening light, looking up the main approach to the castle. © Copyright Bill Boaden and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3605077
From 1800 the Castle was owned by the War Office and run as a barracks. Many alterations were made to the Great Hall, which became an accommodation block, to the Chapel Royal, which became a lecture theatre and dining hall, to the King's Old Building, which became an infirmary and to the Royal Palace, which became the Officer's Mess. In 1810 new buildings were constructed, including the prison and powder magazine, at the Nether Bailey https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stirling_Castle
Can you help us?
Transcription problems: As untrained transcribers we sometimes experience problems interpreting some of Lucy’s writing. We have a problem deciphering two sections today:
over a wet & most wretched footpath to the ?*** ***? bridge of Brackland where there is We have been unable to interpret the first word of Lucy’s superscript.
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part of the old Castle remains which is curiously ??crenelated?? on the outside We’r okay with the word curiously above the deletion but cannot interpret the word that follows and have hazarded a guess with “crenelated”
Old Regency Prints, Pictures an Coaching maps: Do you have access to any prints or pictures showing what town and country would have looked like when Lucy travelled through? Any illustrations of what she would have seen in 1819 will enliven our research.
New Pictures: Do you have any modern pictures of the streets, buildings, gardens and views that would enable us to see the changes that two centuries have wrought?