Monday 4th October 1819
Monday Oct 4th About 12 o’clock we left Perth for Scone Palace 2 miles it is a magnificent building built on the side of the old palace site it belongs to Lord Mansfield the rooms are on a large scale but plainly furnished there is a very fine gallery 150 feet long at the end of which is a beautiful organ the sound of which (which we were permitted to try) had a grand effect, a short distance from the palace surrounded by trees is the cemetery Ld Mansfields ancestors there are two nice monuments erected in it; the garden & Park are very extensive; thence we returned over the Perth bridge to Dunkeld 15 miles a short distance from the town we met Lieutenant Wellington returning from shooting who very politely offered
a brace of birds a few miles further we came in full view of the Grampian hills, which are very fine, a short distance from Dunkeld we entered one of the most rich & beautiful vales I ever saw and encompassed on the left side by the Grampians & Birnam wood with the river Tay winding beautifully through the vale the Cathedral & bridge lately erected approaching the town of Dunkeld are very fine the Inn here is good the gates of the Duke of Atholls seat are close to the Inn the house I understand is not shown to strangers but we intend surveying the extensive grounds tomorrow.
OBSERVATIONS & COMMENTS:
David William Murray, 3rd Earl of Mansfield, 1777 - 1840 would have been the owner in 1819. His portrait can be found in the National Portrait Gallery archive at https://collectionimages.npg.org.uk/std/mw135136/David-William-Murray-3rd-Earl-of-Mansfield.jpg The caricature below shows him (left) with Lord Ellenborough (right) , supporting Lord Brougham who strongly opposed the government measures relating to Canada and was alone in this position until they declared their support for him.
Lord Ellenborough, Lord Brougham and the Earl of Mansfield walk together arm in arm. Coloured lithograph by H.B. (John Doyle), 1838. (CC BY 4.0) https://wellcomecollection.org/works/qz99gqmc Brougham strongly opposed the government measures relating to Canada and was alone in this position for a while. He was eventually supported by Mansfield and Ellenborough. The title refers to the farce of "Three and the Deuce" with the well known characters Pertinax, Peregrine and Percival Single
Tomb Stones of Scone: On the Moot Hill stands a small family chapel of the Earls of Mansfield, veiled by ancient Oaks. In front sits a replica of the Stone of Destiny, where our Kings were crowned, the original being in Edinburgh Castle after being returned to Scotland.
Scone Palace; replica of the Stone of Scone. This is a replica of the original Stone of Scone on which the Scottish kings were crowned here, that is until Edward I took it back to Westminster Abbey in 1296. © Copyright Michael Garlick and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4286393
Inside the chapel are an array of memorials dedicated to members of the Murray family: check out the masonic symbols. Directly behind the chapel is a small locked gated graveyard. Unusually there were two stone monuments in the shape of the Saltire and a peculiar take on the Celtic cross. http://www.hiddenglasgow.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=837
Stone of Scone history: The Palace website at https://scone-palace.co.uk/palace-grounds/stone-of-destiny tells us more of the history: “The Stone of Scone, also known as the Stone of Destiny, comes wrapped in myth and legend. Tradition has it that it was the coronation stone of Kenneth MacAlpin, the 36th King of Dalriada. But the historical view is that Fergus, son of Erc brought the revered stone from Ireland to Argyll, and was crowned on it. Whatever the origin, the Stone of Destiny was placed on the Moot Hill and used in the coronations of the Kings of Scots until the end of the 13th century. In 1296 the Stone of Destiny was captured by Edward I as spoils of war and taken to Westminster Abbey, where it was fitted into a wooden chair, known as King Edward's Chair, on which most subsequent English sovereigns have been crowned. On Christmas Day 1950, a group of four Scottish students reclaimed the Stone from Westminster Abbey. In the process of removing it, however, the stone broke into two pieces. Taking the larger piece the students risked roadblocks on the border and returned to Scotland. The smaller piece was eventually brought north and the Stone of Destiny was repaired by Glasgow stonemason Robert Gray. A major search for the stone had been ordered by the British Government, but this proved unsuccessful. Perhaps assuming that the Church would not return it to England, the stone's custodians left it on the altar of Arbroath Abbey, on 11 April 1951, in the safekeeping of the Church of Scotland. Once the London police were informed of its whereabouts, the Stone of Scone was returned to Westminster. Afterwards, rumours circulated that copies had been made of the Stone and that the returned Stone was not, in fact, the original. In 1996, the Stone was finally restored to the people of Scotland when the British Government moved it to Edinburgh Castle. The Stone of Destiny was last used at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II - and so it still performs its ancient duty, and to far greater effect, making not only the monarch of the Scots but of Britain, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.”
Grampian Mountains:
1831: View of the Grampian Mountains , by D. McKenzie, W.H. Lizars and sourced from http://bibliodyssey.blogspot.com/2008/10/river-deep-mountain-high.html This work is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 70 years or fewer. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Grampian_Mountains01.jpg
Grampian range extends southwest to northeast between the Highland Boundary Fault and the Great Glen, occupying almost half of the land area of Scotland and including the Cairngorms and the Lochaber hills.
2007: Relief map of Scotland with labels. Based on an original by SFC9394 Derivative of File:Scotland (Location) Template (HR).png Source self-made using Inkscape to add text then MS Paint. (to overcome upload failure), by Rab-k. This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. (CC BY-SA 3.0) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Scotland_(Location)_Named_(HR).png
The range includes many of the highest mountains in the British Isles, including Ben Nevis (the highest point in the British Isles at 1,345 m above sea level) and Ben Macdui (the second highest at 1,309 m). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grampian_Mountains
2007: The Cairngorms from Beinn a Ghlo, taken by Stuart Westwater. StuzzyW at the English language Wikipedia, the copyright holder of this work, publishes it under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. (CC BY-SA 3.0) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Beinn_a_ghlo_012.jpg
Dunkeld and Birnam are two adjacent towns in Perth and Kinross, Scotland. They lie on opposite banks of the River Tay, and were first linked by a bridge built in 1809 by Thomas Telford. The two places lie close to the Highland Boundary Fault, which marks the geological boundary between the Highlands and the Lowlands, and are frequently described as the "Gateway to the Highlands" due to their position on the main road and rail lines north. The town is the location of Dunkeld Cathedral.
1777: Dunkeld. London Magazine, Jan. 1777 from the collection of the National Library of Scotland, accession number 75242249. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Jacobite_broadside_-_Dunkeld._London_Magazine,_Jan._1777.jpg
1804: Scotia Depicta - Dunkeld - Plate XLVII/b by John Claude Nattes, etched by James Fittler. John Claude Nattes made drawings of suitable scenes on the spot; etchings are by James Fittler. In the collection of National Library of Scotland, accession number 74582430. This image is available from the National Library of Scotland under the sequence number or Shelfmark ID J.134.f. You can see this image in its original context, along with the rest of the Library's digital collections, in the NLS Digital Gallery https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Scotia_Depicta_-_Dunkeld_-Plate-.jpg This work is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 100 years or fewer.
Around 20 of the houses within Dunkeld have been restored by the National Trust for Scotland.
2007 : Dunkeld Market Place and Fountain A fine small town in the Perthshire Highlands by Jonathan Billinger This image was taken from the Geograph project collection. The copyright on this image is owned by Jonathan Billinger and is licensed for reuse under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. (CC BY-SA 2.0) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Dunkeld_Market_Place_and_Fountain_-_geograph.org.uk_-_633061.jpg
The Hermitage, on the western side of the A9, is a countryside property that is also a National Trust for Scotland site. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunkeld_and_Birnam
Lieutenant Wellington: One is tempted to consider that Lt Wellington might be the son of Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, but this is not the case. Both the Duke's two sons were younger than Lucy, Arthur Richard Wellesley, 2nd Duke of Wellington, being born in 1807, and Lord Charles Wellesley the following year.
Birnam Wood. Birnam lies opposite Dunkeld, on the south bank of the Tay, to which it is linked by the Telford bridge. It is the location of the Birnam Oak, believed to the only remaining tree from the Birnam Wood named in Shakespeare's Macbeth. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunkeld_and_Birnam .
2007: The Birnam Oak, en:Birnam, Perth and Kinross en:Scotland. By W. L. Tarbert, the copyright holder of this work, who released this work into the public domain. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Birnam_Oak.JPG
The Birnam Oak, which aged at least 500-years-old and is the only tree to survive from Shakespeare’s time, is in danger after being damaged by flooding when Storm Desmond hit. Experts say the iconic tree, which attracts thousands of visitors each year, is at risk of splitting in two. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/04/25/last-surviving-oak-tree-from-wood-that-inspired-shakespeares-mac/ Perhaps this oil painting below of Glen Birnam by John Everett Millais evokes a little of the mystery that surrounds Shakespeare’s “Scottish Play”. Lucy describes it as one of the most rich & beautiful vales I ever saw
1890-91: Glen Birnam , painting by John Everett Millais in the collection of the Manchester Art Gallery This is a faithful photographic reproduction of a two-dimensional, public domain work of art. The work of art itself is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 100 years or fewer. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:John_Everett_Millais_-_Glen_Birnam.JPG
Dunkeld Cathedral is a Church of Scotland place of worship which stands on the north bank of the River Tay in Dunkeld, Perth and Kinross, Scotland. Built in square-stone style of predominantly grey sandstone, the cathedral proper was begun in 1260 and completed in 1501.
circa 1774: Dunkeld Cathedral. Engraving by P. Mazell after Paul Sandby. https://antique-prints-maps.com/acatalog/ref1.php?imagefile=../largeimages/SEDunkeldCathedral19.jpg
It stands on the site of the former Culdee Monastery of Dunkeld, stones from which can be seen as an irregular reddish streak in the eastern gable. It is not formally a 'cathedral', as the Church of Scotland nowadays has neither cathedrals nor bishops, but it is one of a number of similar former cathedrals which has continued to carry the name.
Dunkeld Cathedral. Engraver W Banks. Publisher A McLean, bookseller, Dunkeld http://www.rareoldprints.com/z/16907
Because of the long construction period, the cathedral shows mixed architecture. Gothic and Norman elements are intermingled throughout the structure. Although partly in ruins, the cathedral is in regular use today and is open to the public.
2005: Dunkeld Cathedral by Alison Stamp. This image was taken from the Geograph project collection. The copyright on this image is owned by Alison Stamp and is licensed for reuse under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. (CC BY-SA 2.0) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Dunkeld_Cathedral.jpg
Relics of Saint Columba, including his bones, were said to have been kept at Dunkeld until the Reformation, at which time they were removed to Ireland. Some believe there are still undiscovered Columban relics buried within the cathedral grounds. The original monastery at Dunkeld dated from the sixth or early seventh century, founded after an expedition of Saint Columba to the Land of Alba. It was at first a simple collection of wattle huts. During the ninth century Causantín mac Fergusa constructed a more substantial cathedral of reddish sandstone and declared Dunkeld to hold the Primacy (centre) of the faith in Alba. For reasons not completely understood, the Celtic bell believed to have been used at the monastery is not preserved in the cathedral. Instead, it was used in the Little Dunkeld Church, the parish church of the district of Minor or Lesser Dunkeld. Possibly this was because the later canons regarded Culdeeism as heresy, and refused relics or saints of that discipline, although this is no more than folk story. In the 17th century, the Bishopric of Dunkeld became an appendage of the Crown and subsequently descended to the Earls of Fife. Dunkeld Cathedral is today a Crown property, through Historic Environment Scotland, and a scheduled monument. In 1689 the Battle of Dunkeld was fought around the cathedral between the Jacobite Highlanders loyal to James II and VII and a government force supporting William of Orange, with the latter winning the day. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunkeld_Cathedral
Dunkeld Bridge was designed by Thomas Telford who was commissioned to build a bridge that was both functional and elegant. It was opened on 29th March 1809. The bridge spans the River Tay and formerly carried the A9 before the A9 bypassed Dunkeld.
Dunkeld Bridge, Dunkeld . The present bridge was designed by Thomas Telford who was commissioned to build a bridge that was both functional and elegant. It was opened on 29th March 1809. The bridge spans the River Tay and formerly carried the A9 before the A9 bypassed Dunkeld. © Copyright G Laird and licensed for reuse under the (CC BY-SA 2.0) Creative Commons Licence. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5438348
Dunkeld House: The first was blown up by Oliver Cromwell's troops in 1654 and the second was begun in 1676 to replace it. The Prince of Hesse stayed here in 1746, while in command of a mercenary force supporting the Government troops during the Jacobite Rebellion. By 1828 the house was said to be in a dangerous condition and John Murray, the 4th Duke of Atholl (1755 - 1830), was persuaded to replace it. http://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst9941.html
The history of Dunkeld House Hotel Estate: This article, from http://www.dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk/more/history/ provides the background to Lucy’s visit
“The first residence of the Earls of Atholl was situated in old Dunkeld , close behind the Cathedral. In 1828 a London architect, Mr Hopper, reported on the dangerous condition of the house and persuaded the 4th Duke to build another. At this time the Duke had bought an old inn that was situated on the Cathedral lawn and in 1811 this was made into the dwelling house for Miss Ogg, the retired Governess . However, the inn was now needed for the Duke himself to live in during the building of the new house and Miss Ogg was sent to the Isle of Man which was at that time owned by the Atholls. The Duke took up residence in the old inn, which had been enlarged and renamed St. Adamnan’s Cottage. Queen Victoria stayed there on more than one occasion and she describes it in her many journals of her trips to Scotland. During the building of the new house, it was referred to as the Palace and was large enough for a coach and four horses to turn in the hall. The Duke of Atholl died having spent between £20,000 and £30,000 but his palace, with its 96 foot gallery, vast staircase and elegant chapel, was only half finished and his successor did not have the money to continue the building project. It was October 1897 when the 7th Duke decided to build a new house situated a mile further up the river between the King’s Seat and the American Gardens which was to become the present Dunkeld House. This was enjoyed for many years as the country estate of the Atholls and today we pride ourselves on offering the same levels of noble rest and relaxation; a 21st century country retreat where you can enjoy nature, wonderful surroundings, fabulous food and drink and hospitality that is second to none…Details such as the stunning stained glass window bring this history to live. The window shows the Atholl Arms and motto, the origins of which go back to 1475 when King James III of Scotland sent Lord Murray to capture the rebellious Lord MacDonald, the Lord of the Isles. The King gave him a dagger to protect himself, fetters and a key with which to lock them. Lord Murray succeeded in capturing the Lord of the Isles and brought him back to the King. For this service he was granted the Forest of Cluny and took as his motto ‘Furth, Fortune and Fill the Fetters’. In 1703, the Earldom of Atoll was altered to the Dukedom of Atholl. http://www.dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk/more/history/
The Dunkeld House Hotel as it is today:
2007: Dunkeld House Hotel by Raymond Chisholm. The Dunkeld House Hotel, originally built by the 7th Duke of Atholl as a summer house for his wife, is on the banks of the Tay in a 280 acre private estate. This image was taken from the Geograph project collection. The copyright on this image is owned by Raymond Chisholm and is licensed for reuse under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. (CC BY-SA 2.0). https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Dunkeld_House_Hotel_-_geograph.org.uk_-_424707.jpg
The Inn: We cannot be sure where Lucy stayed. It was close to the Gates of the Estate. It may have been the old inn where Miss Ogg, the governess, was in residence, or another of the estate properties, but Lucy’s sketch, “View out of Inn window at Dunkeld” places it close to Telford’s Dunkeld Bridge. This might well be the view from the Cathedral lawn and Miss Ogg’s residence.
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The Grounds: During the early stages of the estates’ history, the second, third and fourth Dukes (the 4th being known as the planting Duke) planted an incredible 14 million larch trees plus millions of other trees between 1738 and 1830 and it is thanks to them that Perthshire enjoys its title of Big Tree Country. These woods also provide homes for both the native Red Squirrel and the Scottish Crossbill, a bird species unique to Britain. http://www.dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk/more/history/ More in tomorrow’s blog
Can you help us?
Inn at Dunkeld: Where did Lucy stay? Could it have been at the Governess Miss Ogg’s residence or somewhere else?
Old Regency Prints, Pictures an Coaching maps: Do you have access to any prints or pictures showing what town and country would have looked like when Lucy travelled through? Any illustrations of what she would have seen in 1819 will enliven our research.
New Pictures: Do you have any modern pictures of the streets, buildings, gardens and views that would enable us to see the changes that two centuries have wrought?